The Sunday Table: June 26, 2011

A bill in my home state of Massachusetts will make the quahog the state shellfish. What?! Did I hear a snicker out of you? Surely it’s because you don’t understand the magnificence of the quahog. And in case you’re wondering, it’s pronounced co-hog, not qwa-hog as a delusional Midwestern executive chef once tried to tell me. Who did the staff believe? Me, of course. Respect. Of course you know how to pronounce quahog if you’re a Family Guy fan.

But what about the soft-shelled clam? Doesn’t it have rights to the state shellfish title? Will it be edged out by the hard-shelled quahog? Fried clams and steamers vs. chowder, cherrystones and stuffies? That’s a tough one.

That’s not the only news out of the Massachusetts State House. Another bill is pending to make Rex Trailer the state cowboy. Surely that one will pass unanimously. My first brush with TV fame was on the Rex Trailer show. I only remember a procession through the set and then having pancakes with Cactus Pete. It was very exciting. Boom, Boom, Boomtown!

Continuing with the Massachusetts theme, did you know that New Bedford is the largest U.S. commercial fishing port? They can thank their scallop fishery for that status. In 2009 the scallop harvest was valued at $249 million, according to the latest federal fishery statistics. “And scallops, unlike lobster, have proven remarkably recession proof with prices rising steadily through the downturn even as the amount caught held relatively steady.” I keep an eye out for sales on scallops at Harris Teeter; their selection always looks fresher than scallops in other markets. The next time I buy some, I’m making Baked Buzzards Bay Scallops – quick, easy and so delicious.

Oh to have a plate of these right now, sigh. (photo by Flickr/joo0ey)

One of my favorite breweries outside North Carolina, New Belgium, is celebrating their 20th anniversary. Twice recently on visits to the Busy Bee Cafe I swooned over their Dunkelweiss. Last night I bought of six-pack of their summer seasonal, Somersault Ale, a kolsch they describe as “a perfect, summer lounge-around ale that is easy to drink.” Yes, it is. My next six-pack purchase will be from a North Carolina brewery. I support my local brewers whenever I can, but since I’m a beer geek and like to try new things, I usually alternate between NC and out of state beers. However, I must confess, because I’m in a constant battle with the bulge, I keep Yuengling Light Lager in stock as my summer house beer. At only 99 calories, it’s my compromise refreshment beer.

Whenever someone I know goes to northern California to visit the wine country, they always head to Napa or Sonoma. I did too until I moved to Sacramento and discovered the more modest wineries hidden among the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. You’ll especially love that area if you’re a Rhone lover like me or a Zin fan. Just 30 minutes from Sac, you’ll find really good wine at more reasonable prices than Napa or Sonoma in a setting that is often more gorgeous. You won’t have to pony up money for tasting fees. At some wineries you may feel like you’re in a rec room or dressed-up shed, but the person pouring wine might just be the vintner. There’s gold in them thar hills!

I’ll leave you with some words of wisdom from Robert Louis Stevenson: “Wine is bottled poetry.”

And now, W.C. Fields: “What contemptible scoundrel stole the cork from my lunch?”

Happy memories! Terre Rouge & Easton Wines in Amador County

National New England Clam Chowder Day

Today is National New England Clam Chowder Day! I’m not taking the day off but I did start celebrating last night by making chowder for dinner. I’m from clam chowder country, Massachusetts, so it’s sort of like mother’s milk to me.

I found this recipe in one of my Eating Well magazines. I’m used to making chowder with salt pork but bacon makes a great substitute. The combination of 2% milk and half-and-half provided enough creaminess. Best of all, there wasn’t any of that awful floury taste that I’ve experienced in some so-called chowders I’ve had in restaurants.

Guess what I’m having for breakfast this morning? Yup, chowdah! It’s always better the next day.

New England Clam Chowder

You’ll need a large saucepan or pot with lid, medium bowl and whisk.

• 2 tsp canola oil
• 4 slices bacon, chopped
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 stalks celery, chopped
• 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1-2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 medium red potato, diced
• 1 8-ounce bottle clam juice
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 3 cups low-fat milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
• 3 6-ounce cans chopped clams and juice
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• Optional – Italian flat-leaf parsley

Heat oil in a large saucepan or pot over medium heat. Add bacon and cook until crispy, 4 to 6 minutes. Add onion, celery and thyme to the pan; cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, cook 1 minute. Add potato, clam juice and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the vegetables are just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

In a medium bowl, mix the flour and salt. Whisk some of the milk slowly into the bowl until all the flour is incorporated without lumps, then add the rest of the milk and cream and whisk to combine. Add the milk mixture to the pot and return the chowder to a simmer, stirring, over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, stirring, until thickened, about 2-3 minutes. Add clams and cook, stirring occasionally, until the clams are just cooked through, about 2-3 minutes more.

To serve, discard the bay leaf. Ladle into bowls and top each serving with some of the scallions and maybe some parsley. Serves 6 if you can stick with one cup servings, good luck with that.

Serve with salad and sweet corn bread.

Original recipe: New England Clam Chowder, Eating Well, Sep/Oct 2008

Clam Dip and Shrimp Crostini

Tis the season for easy-to-make dishes for entertaining, or for hanging out and watching Christmas movies. It’s also the season for indulging in dishes that you normally wouldn’t — dishes made with either seasonal, expensive or high-fat high-calorie ingredients.

I once made a huge Christmas Eve feast that started with Oysters Rockefeller and went on to shrimp, squid and more. Instead of shucking a few dozen oysters, you might want to try these two starters instead. I’ve been making them for years, they’re tried and true.

Chunky Clam and Bacon Dip

• 1/4 pound bacon (about 8 slices), chopped
• two 6 1/2-oz cans minced clams
• 8 oz cream cheese, softened
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1/3 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
• 3 scallions, chopped fine
• 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh basil leaves
• 1 tsp drained bottled horseradish, or more if you’d like
• 1 tsp fresh lemon juice, or to taste
• 3/4 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• Tabasco to taste
• Pita Toasts or potato chips

In a skillet cook bacon over moderate heat, stirring, until golden and crisp and transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

In a large sieve set over a bowl drain clams, reserving clam juice, and in another bowl whisk together cream cheese and sour cream. Whisk 2 Tbsp reserved clam juice into cream cheese mixture with clams, bacon, and remaining ingredients.

Dip may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring dip to room temperature before serving. Makes 2 cups. Serve dip with toasts or chips.

Original recipe: Chunky Clam and Bacon Dip, Gourmet, June 1997

flickr photo by Alejandro Cortes

Creamy Shrimp Crostini

• 40 1/2-inch-thick diagonal baguette slices
• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• 1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined, coarsely chopped
• 1-2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbsp butter or olive oil/butter mix
• 8-oz package cream cheese, room temperature
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup minced green onions
• 1-1/2 Tbsp chopped fresh dill
• 1 tsp grated lemon peel
• Chopped fresh parsley

Preheat broiler. Lightly brush 1 side of each baguette slice with oil. Arrange on 2 baking sheets. Broil until lightly toasted, about 1 minute.

Sauté shrimp and garlic in butter/oil until shrimp is cooked and garlic is golden. Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese, mayonnaise and mustard in large bowl to blend. Mix in shrimp, garlic, green onions, dill and lemon peel. Season with salt and pepper.

Can be made 1 day ahead. Store toasts in airtight container at room temperature. Cover shrimp mixture and chill.

Spread 1 Tbsp shrimp mixture atop each toast. Arrange crostini on baking sheets; broil until shrimp mixture begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Top with parsley.

Original recipe: Creamy Shrimp Crostini, Bon Appétit, January 1998

photo by flickr Christoph W.

Soul Food: Linguine with White Clam Sauce

Do you have a repertoire of pastas that you return to again and again? Pastas that don’t require much brain effort?

Pastas are my soul food. I may be Irish-Lithuanian but I think all those years growing up in southern Massachusetts amidst Italians, visits to the Italian bakery in my grandparents’ East Cambridge neighborhood, and working in and managing Italian restaurants have indelibly marked my taste buds, nose and stomach as Italian territory. I’m okay with that.

This recipe is an old faithful when I don’t have any ideas for dinner, or when the cupboard is bare. I usually have pasta, onions, garlic and canned clams. The zucchini isn’t always in the fridge but it’s an easy enough thing to pick up at the store. I’m lucky that I have a huge planter full of oregano, but dried oregano has served me well enough in the past. Of course, it would be better with fresh clams, maybe some white wine too, but those ingredients aren’t always hanging around.

I’m sorry I don’t have exact quantities for the ingredients, but that’s the beauty of pasta sauces, they’re very forgiving. Do what smells right. This recipe makes enough for two healthy eaters.

pasta to veggie ratio is a little off

Linguine with White Clam Sauce

• Whole wheat linguine — I’m a whole wheat pasta convert, it has a heartier flavor and it’s good for you. You could use fettuccine too. Or really anything, but those are my usual choices. How much? A handful, I suppose. I’ve always been a bit excessive with pasta as you can tell by the photo.
• Olive oil
• Medium to large onion, sliced — I usually half the onion, lengthwise, then half it again but not all the way through, and cut slices from each half.
• 2-3 zucchini, quartered lengthwise and sliced — This will depend upon the size of your zucchini, but you want more zucchini then onion.
• Salt to taste
• 3-4 garlic cloves, chopped or sliced – Again, this depends upon the size of your cloves and your love for garlic. Garlic is a prominent flavor in this dish.
• 1/4 cup or so white wine, optional
• 1 or 2 6.5oz cans of chopped or minced clams – You could do more. I only add one can for two people because I don’t want to use all my cans on one meal.
• Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Oregano — Use several sprigs of fresh if you have it, if not, about 1/2 tsp of dried is a good place to start.
• 1-2 Tbsp butter
• Parmesan cheese – freshly grated parmigiana or the green can – I know there’s this supposed Italian rule against cheese with seafood but I don’t always subscribe to it.

Put water on, in a covered pot, to boil. I do this as soon as I start chopping; I can always turn it off once it’s ready.

Saute the onions and zucchini in a large pan. Sprinkle some salt on them to help break them down. Once they’re pretty much done, add the garlic and saute for about a minute. If you’re using white wine, add it now and deglaze the pan, waiting for the wine to cook down a bit.

Meanwhile, add your pasta and salt to the boiling water and cook according to the box directions, but only to al dente. Reserve a few ladles of pasta water in a small bowl before draining the pasta.

Add the clams and juice, red pepper, dried oregano (if using) and black pepper to the pan, and let it cook for a few minutes. You just want to warm things through and meld the flavors. Wait until just before adding the pasta to add fresh chopped oregano.

Add the pasta to your pan along with a half a ladle (or more) of pasta water. Pasta water will add some starchiness, thickening the sauce. Let it all cook for about a minute or so. Add as much pasta water as you’d like to achieve the sauciness you want. When you’re done, turn off the heat and add the butter, hiding it under the pasta so it will melt and then mixing it in.

Serve with parmigiana (or parmesan) cheese. If you have enough sauce on your plate, it’s really good to sop it up with some bread. Of course, a glass of red wine heightens the whole experience, while cooking and dining. May I suggest the BV Coastal Estates Cabernet Sauvignon which is on sale right now at Lowes Foods for $7.49 (marked down from $12.49).

Tell me about your soul food dishes. Do you have a go-to pasta or another dish that you can make in your sleep?

Clam Chowder with Sweet Potato Fries

The cold weather put me in the mood this weekend for clam chowder. Somewhere I have a tried and true recipe. Somewhere. I found a recipe with potential on the Eating Well magazine site so I gave it a try. It’s a winner that probably has a lower fat content than my old recipe.

Eating Well is my favorite healthy eating magazine. I used to also subscribe to Cooking Light, but their recipes rely on processed food much too often;  that’s not the way I usually cook. Eating Well publishes interesting articles about ingredients and nutrition and has a slant toward local, seasonal and sustainable food.

New England Clam Chowder

• 2 tsp canola oil
• 4 slices bacon, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 stalks celery, chopped
• 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme or 1 tsp dried
• 2 cloves garlic, diced
• 1-3 medium red potatoes
  
• 1 8-oz bottle clam juice — My store didn’t have any so I used 1-1/2 cups of boxed seafood stock. The increased amount is due to extra potatoes and a very large onion.
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 cups low-fat milk
  
• ½ cup heavy cream or  half & half
  
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• ¾ tsp salt
• 3 6-oz cans chopped clams and their juice
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat and add bacon. Cook until crispy. Add onion, celery and thyme to the pan, stirring, until beginning to soften. Add garlic, sauté a minute. Add potato, clam juice (seafood stock) and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the vegetables are just tender.

Whisk milk, cream, flour and salt in a medium bowl. I add the flour little by little to prevent lumps. Or you could add some milk to the flour to make a slurry and then add the rest. Add to the pan and return to a simmer, stirring. Cook, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Add clams (and juice) and cook, stirring occasionally for about 3 minutes more (or longer).

Discard the bay leaf before serving. Top each bowl with some sliced scallions.

Original Recipe: New England Clam Chowder

I served the chowder with sweet potato fries. I love roasting sweet potatoes but they always end up softer than I’d like, even at high heat. I found a recipe on Annie’s Eats that called for soaking the cut potatoes in cold water before roasting to increase their crispiness, and, by god, it works. They’re still not as crispy as fried sweet potatoes, but I’m trying to be a bit healthy here. I added cayenne to the recipe for some heat. Experiment with your herbs or spices.

Roasted Sweet Potato Fries

• 2 sweet potatoes, peeled
• 1-2 tbsp olive oil
  
• 2-3 crushed garlic cloves (crush them on sheet pan)
  
• 1 tbsp light brown sugar
• 1 tsp cayenne or smoked paprika
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
  

Preheat oven to 450. Line a baking sheet with parchment or foil greased lightly with cooking spray.

Halve potatoes lengthwise and cut into long fry shapes, not too thin. Soak fries in cold water for 20-30 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Toss fries on sheet pan with the oil. Spread them out in a single layer. Combine brown sugar, cayenne, salt and pepper, and sprinkle on the fries.

Bake for 15 minutes, then turn with spatula or tongs. Bake another 5-10 minutes until lightly browned. Sprinkle with salt if desired and serve.

I’ve found a lot of great recipes on Annie’s Eats. It’s definitely RSS subscription worthy. She recently published a recipe that looks absolutely crazy good, Ham and Cheese Pretzel Bites.

Recipe: Roasted Sweet Potato Fries