Hiking into the Grand Canyon

Our trip to the Grand Canyon began 13 months before it started. That’s when my guy spent an hour and 15 minutes speed-dialing to Xanterra, the company that runs all the park’s accommodations on the south rim. We got lucky and he got through before they sold out. He made a reservation for four of us for one night at Phantom Ranch — the park’s only lodging, besides a campground, down in the bottom of the canyon. This was our whole reason for taking a week’s vacation out west. We spent a few nights in Vegas and warmed up by hiking in Death Valley and Red Rock Canyon before heading to the Grand Canyon.

We stayed at the El Tovar on the south rim the night before our hike down into the canyon. After a hearty breakfast at the Bright Angel Lodge we caught the hiker’s shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trailhead.

Views from the South Kaibab trail

It was probably in the 30s when we started our hike but we were so excited that the cold was the last thing on our mind. There was snow in the vegetation all around but the trail was in good shape. The views on the way down were beyond words (and photos) to describe — the most beautiful trail I have ever been on. Unlike the Bright Angel trail that we would climb up out of the canyon the next day, originally a Native American and then a miners trail, the park service blasted the South Kaibab out of the ridge, resulting in incredible vistas for hikers.

Profound hiking thoughts: have my feet always been that big?

It’s 7.1 miles down to Phantom Ranch from the rim. My quads were still a bit tight from our hikes in Death Valley and Red Rock, but I never spent too long dwelling on them. The views were too stunning — canyon after canyon, mesas, buttes, red rock — absolutely stunning.  After a while the Colorado River eked into view, and then got closer and closer. We crossed a suspension bridge to get to the other side. Now the Ranch was only about .7 miles in.

Colorado River at the bottom of the Canyon

We spent some time on a little beach, cooling (more like freezing) our bare feet in the ice-cold Colorado, and then ate lunch at another spot along the river. Soon we arrived at Phantom Ranch – a collection of cabins, bunkhouses, campground and canteen. We had reservations in the bunkhouses — the three of us girls in one and Jim in the other.

The view from the door of our bunkhouse

We dumped our stuff on an empty bunk and headed to the canteen for a celebratory beer. As Jim and Lesley went for a walk along the river, Patty and I went to a ranger’s talk that turned into a question and answer session with a guy who worked for Xanterra since the ranger canceled. He had all kinds of insider stuff and old stories to tell us, and for an hour we were a rapt audience. They work ten days on and four days off but have to travel to and from work within those four days. Traveling to and from means hiking up and down the canyon, just as we did. The rangers do the same except they work eight days and have six off and travel during those six. During the summer he leaves at 2:00 in the morning to avoid the heat. Everything goes into the Ranch either by mule or on someone’s back unless it’s a new AC unit or stove, then they hire a helicopter.

He told us that no one ever dies from falls while hiking, but that two people die a year, on average, from heat complications. Usually these victims are young guys who take on more than they can handle in the heat and don’t have enough water. There are several signs on the trail within the first few miles down from the rim that warn people to return to the rim unless they have enough water, but so many think they’re invincible.

Soon it was time to eat, yay! Our hiker’s stew hit the spot and came with a  really good salad (with broccoli rabe), cornbread and chocolate cake. Everything was served family style at long tables so it was a fun chatting with others. We hit the sack early and exhausted.

Wandering around Phantom Ranch

The next morning we were woken up at 4:30 a.m. – breakfast time. We weren’t going to breakfast since we had ordered a pack lunch for the trail, plus we still had leftover food in our packs from the hike down. We got going around 6:00 and hit the Bright Angel trail by 6:30. We crossed the other suspension bridge over the Colorado and then trudged through sand for a long time along the river’s edge. But eventually the real climb up began. Switchbacks after switchbacks, oy. The trail often had timbers lying across, like stairs, some close together, some with about a yard or more in between. And some were about a foot tall — those were killers, even with poles. I rather just climb a steep trail without those steps but they’re needed to prevent erosion, I guess.

As we were hiking up some switchbacks we heard what sounded like a stampede above us and then Jim’s yell, “mules!” We scurried back to the nearest turn where we could get off the trail. The mules have the right of way so you have to hustle to give it to them, and stepping to the side would have been challenging since there were steep inclines on both sides of the trail. The mule train went by rapidly, led by two riders looking mighty rough and western.

A mule train heading down into the canyon

The Bright Angel Trail is tough, 9.6 miles of climbing up canyons. There’s respite about halfway up at Indian Gardens, an oasis with water supplies. But then the slog begins again. The trail is quite different from the South Kaibab. Instead of grand vistas, the views are more limited, but they are beautiful. Soon the rim came into view and we knew that it was only a matter of a few more miles — up.

Views from (and of) the Bright Angel Trail

We took our time getting up, stopping a lot to eat jerky, trail mix, apples, bagels and other snacks. After about seven hours we reached the rim and the Bright Angel Lodge. Tired and sweaty we headed to the lounge for our well-deserved post-hike beer, in my case a Grand Canyon Brewing pilsner, which just about knocked me out. We spent that night at Kachina lodge — an early night again.

I’ve hiked in a lot of beautiful places both on the east and west coast, in the Sierra Nevada, Shenandoah and many other ranges, and there is no comparison. It was definitely my most memorable hike ever. Beauty that is beyond words and my limited photography skills. If you are at all tempted, get into reasonable shape (I wasn’t in my best shape but I managed), plan ahead so you can get a reservation at Phantom Ranch and go. It’s an experience you will cherish.

Red Rock Canyon

While in Las Vegas, if you take a drive out of the city on Charleston Boulevard, you will run into Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, about 15 miles from the Strip. A 13-mile scenic drive takes you through this beautiful part of the desert, and true to its name, red rocks make up a great deal of the landscape.

A few weeks ago my boyfriend, his daughter, sister and I were warming up for our hike into the Grand Canyon and spent some time hiking one day in Red Rock. This was my fourth trip to the park and the third trip with my guy. I’m a red rock freak. On our first trip we climbed Turtlehead Peak. As we started and I looked at the summit way in the distance, I remarked how the trail was so well maintained. Wouldn’t you know it, not long after I said that the trail petered out. We picked our way up through desert scrub and boulders for the rest of the hike up to the summit, pretty grueling but fun in a sick way.

From the cold and windy summit of Turtlehead you can see the Vegas strip and hundreds of miles around. The hike down had its challenges as well since it was really gravelly and slippery. As we aimed for the bottom, we often found ourselves instead at the edge of a cliff — grrr, back up the slope to find another way down. As we picked our way down under the setting sun we heard coyotes in the distance. It was a hike I’ll never forget — tough and rewarding — but also the first one my honey and I did together, setting a precedent in many ways.

Turtlehead Peak

Last year we spent some time exploring two canyons in Red Rock — Pine Creek and Fern Canyons on either side of the Mescalito, a huge tower of rock popular with climbers. What should’ve been a five or six mile hike turned into a lot more because of course we had to go off trail and explore. Not my choice, that’s my guy, he likes to push it. Lots of bouldering — which I don’t mind when I’m feeling fresh but when my legs are tired, not so much. Once you get way back into the canyon, the trail ends and scant paths meander off. They’re not as well traveled and it is the desert, so they’re easy to lose. On our way back out of Fern Canyon we lost the trail and found ourselves higher up then we had intended. But it was a good thing. We flushed out four big horn sheep and saw them clatter off down the cliff — a memorable moment.

View of Mescalito from Fern Canyon

This year, after taking a short hike into Lost Creek Canyon — nice waterfall back there — we brought our cohorts to Pine Creek and Fern Canyons . We only got lost once, maybe twice. People leave cairns behind to help others find their way but it’s easy to lose the trail — there really isn’t much of one. The canyons are beautiful places, a mix of terrain — down at the bottom there is the creek bed with oaks, pines and ferns, and as you climb it becomes high desert scrub and a variety of rocks. The rock faces are gorgeous and imposing. You don’t see many hikers back there, off the normal trail, except for climbers.

On the "trail" in Fern Canyon

There’s more to explore in those canyons. The trails are barely there, if at all, but I’ve read that the rewards are stunning — natural bridges and arches, caves, summits. Am I brave and strong enough to go further back (and up) next time?

On your way home from Red Rock, stop at Big Dog’s Brewing on North Rancho. They have excellent beer, particularly their specials, plus now they have a great selection of guest taps too.

Yes, Vegas is a great hiking hub. Besides Red Rock, there are the Spring Mountains — we had a nice hike in the snow there last year — and the Valley of Fire with its petroglyphs. Next time you go to Vegas, bring your hiking boots and get out of the city!

Death Valley

Death Valley is beautiful. Are you thinking, what? Death Valley? Yes, I thought the same thing many years ago when my brother told me it was his favorite place on his cross-country journey. But I found out why when I stayed at Furnace Creek Ranch in the early 2000′s for a few nights and explored the park.

Last winter I returned to Death Valley with my boyfriend Jim and he fell in love with it too. It’s only a few hours drive from Las Vegas — a great hiking hub, yeah, I can hear your laughs now, but it’s true. Think about it — Vegas is surrounded by mountains, that means hiking. A few weeks ago we returned to Death Valley with a larger crew — his daughter Lesley and sister Patty — as part of our Grand Canyon warm up. More on that later.

Why do we like it so much? The landscape is beautiful, austere and sometimes odd. All kinds of rock formations that make you want to learn more about geology.

On the trail from Zabriskie Pt to Golden Canyon

We only did one hike because we had left behind his sister Mary (who doesn’t hike) at Furnace Creek Ranch and didn’t want to abandon her for too long. Patty and I were dropped off at Zabriskie Point to hike to the Golden Canyon trailhead parking lot, while Jim and Lesley started from there and hiked to Zabriskie. We crossed paths along the way. If you hike near Golden Canyon, don’t miss going off the trail to Cathedral Rock. You’ll have to squeeze under and through rocks but it’s worth it — gorgeous, a secret red world.

At the end of our hike we picked up the car at Golden Canyon and drove back to Zabriskie to pick up the other two who ended up there. And then we all went to the saloon at the Furnace Creek Ranch for a post-hike pitcher.

On the trail near Cathedral Rock

Other highlights:

• Artist’s Drive – a scenic drive within the park, absolutely stunning 9-mile one-way twisty road, best accompanied by Robert Plant’s Big Log playing on the CD player. We always bring Plant, Sting, Dire Straits and Mark Knopfler along on our desert trips — they fit the desert well.
• Devil’s Golf Course – salty almost coral-like landscape.
• Badwater — the lowest point in our hemisphere — make sure to walk way out onto what looks like ice, it’s bizarre.
• Zabriskie Point and Dante’s Peak – scenic overlooks.
• NPS Furnace Creek Visitor Center – learn about borax, pupfish and geology!

Devil's Golf Course

With more time you can explore the area around Stovepipe Wells and Scotty’s Castle like I did on my first trip, and find a crater and sand dunes, but one day in the park is enough to get a sense of its beauty, as long as you’re there in the winter, fall or spring. I wouldn’t consider it in the summer.

And if you have the time on the way there or back, stop at the Pahrump Valley Winery in Pahrump, NV. It’s not Sonoma, but it’s a nice break on the drive. Also, keep an eye out for the roadside jerky stands. By the time we drove back, the one we saw was already closed. Love my jerky!

UPDATE:

To please my Death Valley crew who seem to take joy in my distress, I’m adding the photo that Patty took of me while I was in the midst of fruitlessly trying to find the car keys in the right rear wheel well (try saying that a few times). At this point, I must have been wondering, what the hell are we going to do….

Hardy har har, the joke's on me

Raven Rock State Park

A few weekends ago I went hiking with my boyfriend, his daughter and her dog in Raven Rock State Park in Lillington on a chilly Saturday morning. We shared the gravel parking lot with a rambunctious pack of Boy Scouts getting ready for a camping trip. Luckily for us, they took a different trail.

We set out on the Raven Rock Loop trail and took it to the Little Creek Loop Trail. It’s a flat trail that goes through the woods along a stream. Eventually you come to the turnoff for Raven Rock that leads down terraced steps and then down a well-made wide wooden staircase to the edge of Cape Fear River where you can walk along Raven Rock, a high bluff facing the river.

According to the park, “This immense crystalline structure (Raven Rock) rises to 150 feet and stretches for more than a mile along the Cape Fear River. The rock was originally called Patterson’s Rock for an early settler who found refuge there when his canoe capsized nearby. In 1854, its name was changed to Raven Rock, inspired by the sight of ravens that formerly roosted on rock ledges.” We didn’t see any ravens.

Because of all the rain, we did get to see lots of ice falls along the rock face and huge icicles hanging off the top of the bluff. The rock face itself slants overhead so you can walk under the rock without worrying about icicles crashing down on you. It’s a nice place to hang out for a while and explore.

Then it’s cardio time. Back up the staircase and then the shallower trail steps. By the time you’re at the top, if you’ve charged up without resting, you’re in full cardio mode. We continued on the trail and took the turnoff for the Overlook. Instead of being on the river’s edge, now you’re above it on a viewing platform.

Our loop eventually took us back to the parking lot. It was about five miles altogether with all our time on the turnoffs. Next time we’re going to do the Campbell Creek Loop Trail.

Winter is a great time for hiking. You don’t see as many people out on the trails. You don’t have to worry about poison ivy. Once you start hiking, you don’t even have to worry about the cold as long as you’re wearing a hat and gloves. You can peel layers as you go. Just remember that if you’re going on a long hike, you can get just as dehydrated in the winter especially if the humidity is really low, so bring water with you.

Raven Rock State Park

3009 Raven Rock Road, Lillington, NC 27546

Trail map

Hiking with Strangers

When I lived in the DC area I was spoiled by two fantastic hiking groups – Wanderbirds Hiking Club and Capital Hiking Club. One went out on Saturdays, the other on Sundays, so I could hike every weekend if I wanted to. Even better, they chartered a bus so I didn’t have to worry about driving long distances after a long tiring hike. Both were well-organized groups with lots of experienced hikers. We split into two or three groups based on pace and mileage so we weren’t overrunning the trails. After the hike we enjoyed bottles of beer for $1 and change – and that usually included good craft beer! On the way home, we chatted, passed around bags of snacks, rested our tired legs and snoozed. Those strangers became good hiking buddies.

Umstead SP - flickr photo by bobistraveling

When I moved to Sacramento, I looked for something similar because, as in DC, none of my friends were interested in hiking (thankfully, this would later change). However, clubs like the ones I knew didn’t really exist, probably because more people are outdoorsy there and do their own thing. That’s when I discovered Meetup and The Sacramento Hiking Meetup Group. Instead of a bus, we carpooled together from a suburban parking lot. No beer on a bus but we sometimes gathered after the hike to grab a bite and a brew. I went on some challenging and truly awesome and spectacular hikes in the mountains of the Sierra Nevada.

Here in Raleigh, the mountains are a bit smaller and farther away than they were in Sacramento, but I found myself another Meetup hiking group – Raleigh Weekday Outdoor Activity Group. Weekday hiking, yay! The hikes aren’t nearly as long as my DC and California hikes. Out of respect for everyone’s schedule, they stick close to home and keep the mileage low. Last week we did a five-mile hike in William B. Umstead State Park — Pott’s Branch Trail (1.25 miles), Oak Rock Trail (.6 miles), Sal’s Branch Trail (2.75 miles) and Camp Ground Spur Trail (.4 miles). Umstead is a great get-away for a short afternoon hike, plus I just figured out that the Lonerider Brewing Company’s tasting room is only a short distance away (but only open Thursday, Friday and Saturday).

Harris Lake

On Monday we hiked in Lake Harris County Park on the five-mile Peninsula Trail. This pretty wooded flat trail skirts the lake. It must be even better when the water birds are out. The only strange thing about hiking here is the occasional view of the Progress Energy nuclear plant’s cooling tower, but we all figured that if the worse case scenario happened, at least it’d be a quick fry! After the hike we all hung out at a picnic table and enjoyed some hot chocolate with marshmallows that one of our crew brought.

Get out on the trail (any trail) this weekend and, if you do, please let me know where you went and how you liked it.